5 Powerful Tips to Predict GSM via Yarn Count in Different Knitted Fabrics

In the world of textiles, particularly in knitting, understanding the relationship between GSM via Yarn Count is essential for producing fabrics with desired characteristics. GSM is a measure of fabric weight and thickness, while yarn count indicates the thickness of the yarn used. These two parameters are interlinked and play a crucial role in determining the final properties of the knitted fabric.

What is GSM in Knitting?

GSM, or grams per square meter, is a standard measure used to quantify the weight of a fabric. It is calculated by weighing a one-square-meter piece of fabric. A higher GSM indicates a heavier and usually thicker fabric, while a lower GSM suggests a lighter and thinner fabric. In the knitting industry, GSM is a critical factor because it affects the fabric’s drape, feel, warmth, and overall performance.

What is Yarn Count?

Yarn count refers to the thickness of the yarn used in knitting. It is expressed in various systems, with the most common being the English Cotton Count (Ne) and the Tex system. In the English Cotton Count, a higher number indicates a finer yarn (e.g., 40 Ne is finer than 20 Ne). Conversely, in the Tex system, a higher number represents a thicker yarn (e.g., 30 Tex is thicker than 20 Tex).

The Impact of Yarn Count on GSM

The relationship between yarn count and GSM is not linear because it depends on several factors, including the type of knit fabric, stitch density, and machine settings. Here’s how these elements interact:

1. Type of Knit Fabric

• Single Jersey: This is a basic knit structure that produces a lightweight fabric. For example, using a 30 Ne yarn count might result in a GSM of around 140-160. If you use a thicker yarn, such as 20 Ne, the GSM will increase, potentially reaching around 180-200.
• Rib Knit: Rib knit fabrics are denser than single jersey fabrics due to their structure. A 30 Ne yarn in a rib knit might produce a GSM of around 200-220, while a 20 Ne yarn could result in a GSM of 250-270.
• Interlock Knit: Interlock knits are even denser and heavier. A 30 Ne yarn count in interlock knit might result in a GSM of 240-260, and a 20 Ne yarn could produce a GSM of 300-320.

2. Stitch Density

Stitch density refers to the number of stitches per unit area in the fabric. Higher stitch density generally increases the GSM of the fabric. For instance, if you increase the stitch density while using the same yarn count, the fabric will be heavier and thicker, leading to a higher GSM.

3. Machine Settings

The settings of the knitting machine, such as tension and gauge, also influence the GSM. Higher tension and finer gauge can produce a tighter, denser fabric with a higher GSM, even with the same yarn count.

Practical Approach to Determining GSM

To accurately determine the GSM for a specific knitting setup, it’s best to conduct a sample knitting. This involves knitting a fabric sample with the desired yarn count and machine settings, then measuring its GSM. This practical approach accounts for all variables, including machine calibration, yarn properties, and specific knit structures.

Conclusion

Understanding the relationship between yarn count and GSM in knitting is crucial for producing fabrics that meet specific requirements. By considering the type of knit fabric, stitch density, and machine settings, manufacturers can predict and control the GSM to achieve desired fabric characteristics. Whether you’re producing lightweight t-shirts or heavy sweaters, mastering this relationship ensures consistency and quality in your knitted textiles.